A compliant shipment from China includes a standard document set. Verify you receive all of them before the ship departs, because correcting documents mid-transit is slow and expensive. The core set: commercial invoice, bill of lading (original, if your country requires presentation for customs), packing list, certificate of origin, and the export customs declaration. For used cars, also expect the Chinese registration certificate copy, deregistration proof, and a condition/inspection report. Some destinations require additional certificates — GCC states need GSO conformity, EU countries need COC or individual approval, several African nations require BESC/ECTN tracking numbers issued before loading. Your customs broker will typically need the invoice and bill of lading at minimum, plus proof of vehicle age and emissions where age limits apply. Ask your exporter for scanned copies the day the vessel sails, not when it arrives: pre-clearance can cut port storage fees significantly. One caution: the invoice value must match your payment records. Under-declaring to save duties is customs fraud in most countries and risks seizure.

A realistic budget has several layers beyond the vehicle price. First, inland logistics in China: moving the car to the export port typically costs $300-$800. Second, export handling: inspection, customs declaration and paperwork usually add $500-$1,000. Third, ocean freight. A 20ft container to most destinations runs $1,200-$3,000 depending on route; RoRo shipping can be cheaper for driveable cars. Add marine insurance, usually 0.3%-0.5% of the car value. Fourth, destination charges: port handling, customs duties, VAT/GST and local registration fees. These vary widely; some countries charge duties of 20%-80% of the vehicle value plus an excise based on engine capacity. Finally, any compliance work: inspection certificates, modifications to meet local standards, or homologation. Ask your exporter for a full CIF quote and have a local customs broker confirm destination taxes before you commit.

Request a live video call during the test drive rather than a pre-recorded one. Cold start first: listen for rattling or metal scraping in the first seconds — possible timing chain or hydraulic lifter issues. During acceleration, a whining from the gearbox area can mean bearing wear; hesitation or jerking in an automatic suggests transmission problems. Braking: the pedal should feel firm, not spongy, and the car must not pull to one side. Turn the wheel fully in both directions and listen for clicking — a classic CV joint fault. Insist on a highway segment too: vibrations above 100 km/h often point to unbalanced wheels or bent rims. Ask the driver to film the dashboard throughout — warning lights that flicker on briefly are still faults that OBD will record.