Start with the paperwork: the vehicle registration certificate lists every ownership transfer, and the service book plus dealer maintenance records help confirm mileage. For digital verification, ask the seller for a live video walkaround plus a diagnostic scan report showing the ECU-recorded mileage, which is hard to manipulate. For EVs, request a battery state-of-health (SOH) report — it reveals real usage patterns far better than the odometer. Finally, a pre-shipment inspection by a third party should include structural checks (pillars, chassis rails) to rule out accident repairs. Build "no major accident, no flood or fire damage" into your purchase contract with a refund clause if the inspection contradicts it.

The "usage type" section on the vehicle registration certificate has legal validity. Any vehicle that changes from "commercial" to "non-commercial" has a usage intensity far exceeding that of personal vehicles, and we will label these prominently. Such vehicles are usually cheaper but have more severe mechanical wear.

A proper inspection relies on equipment, not just eyes. The inspector should use a paint thickness gauge to measure 50-60 points across body panels; original paint is typically 80-150 microns. An OBD diagnostic scanner reads stored and pending fault codes across all control units, and for EVs it also reads battery state of health and charge cycle counts. The car must go on a lift for the underbody check: frame rails, suspension components, oil leaks and accident repair marks are only visible from below. A battery tester checks starting voltage and charging system health, and a tread depth gauge documents tire condition. Ask for the report to include raw readings and dated photos rather than a simple pass/fail summary - that is what makes it verifiable.