Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.

Based on practical risk assessment, we strongly recommend setting aside 3% to 5% of the car price as a buffer fund for even the highest-rated used cars, to cover oil changes, new tires, minor shipping scratches, and local inspection labor costs.

Yes. The inspection report includes a specific "consumable parts consumption list." We will measure the tire tread depth (in millimeters) and the remaining brake pad thickness using calipers. If the tire tread is below the legal wear limit of 1.6mm, we will note it as "recommended to replace immediately upon arrival."