Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.

During the stationary steering test, the technician will check the smoothness of the steering wheel from full left to full right, looking for any unusual noises from the steering gear; they will also inspect the hydraulic power steering pump (if present) and the seals of the steering column for any hydraulic fluid leakage.

Complete records represent underlying trust and zero odometer adjustment risk. In the used car market, solid data history itself carries a high premium. The extra few hundred dollars buys you an impeccable endorsement when selling overseas.