We thoroughly rule them out by checking if the cabin wiring harness is melted, if the seat belts have water stains or mold, if there is unusual rust or debris in the seat tracks and cigarette lighter, and by verifying with the insurance company for any "total loss claims." These two types of cars are an absolute sales ban for us.

A proper inspection relies on equipment, not just eyes. The inspector should use a paint thickness gauge to measure 50-60 points across body panels; original paint is typically 80-150 microns. An OBD diagnostic scanner reads stored and pending fault codes across all control units, and for EVs it also reads battery state of health and charge cycle counts. The car must go on a lift for the underbody check: frame rails, suspension components, oil leaks and accident repair marks are only visible from below. A battery tester checks starting voltage and charging system health, and a tread depth gauge documents tire condition. Ask for the report to include raw readings and dated photos rather than a simple pass/fail summary - that is what makes it verifiable.

A Certificate of Origin (C/O) is an official document stating where the vehicle was manufactured. Customs authorities use it to decide which tariff rates and trade agreements apply to your import. Why it matters: many countries offer preferential tariffs for certain origins. With a valid C/O, such as the ASEAN-China Form E or a GSP Form A, you may pay reduced or zero duty. Without it, you typically pay the standard, higher rate. The certificate must match the vehicle exactly: VIN, make, model and invoice details. It is usually issued by the China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT) or customs authorities. Practical tips: request the C/O before shipment, because adding it later is slow; check that your country's customs accepts the specific C/O format; and confirm with your broker whether your vehicle category qualifies for preferential rates. This single document can save you thousands in duty.