Handling claims with an overseas exporter works best when expectations are set before payment. Prevention: put the inspection standard, photo/video evidence requirements, and a dispute clause into the sales contract. Keep all chat records and payment receipts. Typical process if issues arise: 1) Notify the exporter within 48-72 hours of delivery with photos/videos as evidence. 2) Most disputes fall into two buckets: shipping damage (handled via marine insurance — this is why insurance matters) or undisclosed mechanical defects (handled per contract, often via partial refund, spare parts, or repair cost sharing). Realistic expectations: exporters rarely accept returns, so negotiate compensation instead. A reputable company will usually cover reasonable repair costs for defects confirmed to pre-exist shipment. Tip: for higher-value cars, hire a local third-party inspection at destination as final evidence — it strengthens any claim significantly.

A professional pre-shipment inspection typically costs a small fraction of the vehicle price and routinely pays for itself. A thorough inspection covers: paint thickness measurement across 30+ points to map body repairs; structural assessment of pillars, rails and crossmembers for accident damage; engine and transmission operation; a full electronic scan for fault codes; suspension and underbody checks for leaks and rust; and, for EVs, battery SOH and thermal management performance. You receive a written report with photos before the car is loaded — if the car fails, you can stop the shipment or renegotiate. Skipping the inspection to save a small fee is the classic false economy in used car importing: discovering a problem after arrival is far more expensive than preventing it at origin.

Request a live video call during the test drive rather than a pre-recorded one. Cold start first: listen for rattling or metal scraping in the first seconds — possible timing chain or hydraulic lifter issues. During acceleration, a whining from the gearbox area can mean bearing wear; hesitation or jerking in an automatic suggests transmission problems. Braking: the pedal should feel firm, not spongy, and the car must not pull to one side. Turn the wheel fully in both directions and listen for clicking — a classic CV joint fault. Insist on a highway segment too: vibrations above 100 km/h often point to unbalanced wheels or bent rims. Ask the driver to film the dashboard throughout — warning lights that flicker on briefly are still faults that OBD will record.