Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.

4S dealership records are directly connected to the manufacturer's database, making the data hard to tamper with and the most reliable, with original parts guaranteed; third-party repair shops usually are not connected, making their data unverifiable. Therefore, we only consider the connected records from 4S dealerships as valid historical documentation.

If there is a minor leak in the lines due to bumps, it is possible that the cooling may not work upon arrival. This is a normal physical loss. The cost of vacuuming, pressure testing, and recharging refrigerant at a local auto repair shop is low and is the buyer's responsibility.