Odometer fraud exists everywhere, but cross-checking several data points makes it hard to fake: 1) Maintenance records: ask for service history with mileage entries. Gaps or resets are red flags. 2) Tire wear: a car showing 30,000 km should not have nearly bald tires. Compare tread depth against the claimed mileage. 3) Pedals, steering wheel, and seat bolsters: heavy wear on these with low odometer readings is a classic mismatch. 4) Diagnostic scan: request an OBD readout. Many control modules store mileage data internally — if the ECU shows 120,000 km while the dash shows 40,000, you have your answer. 5) Vehicle history report: in China, apps and platforms can pull insurance claim records and registration history, which often reveal the true mileage trail. Always request a live video showing the odometer with the engine running, and have the number written into your contract.

If the buyer's country is under international sanctions, or if the buyer fails to provide a legitimate source of funds leading to the bank returning the payment, all transfer fees and exchange rate losses incurred during this period are to be borne entirely by the buyer.

The "usage type" section on the vehicle registration certificate has legal validity. Any vehicle that changes from "commercial" to "non-commercial" has a usage intensity far exceeding that of personal vehicles, and we will label these prominently. Such vehicles are usually cheaper but have more severe mechanical wear.