Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.

As rubber seals age, "slight oil seepage (oil stains but no dripping)" is very common in used cars and is not considered a major fault. Our recommendation is: as long as the oil level does not drop abnormally, just clean and monitor it regularly after arrival, without the need to immediately incur high costs to disassemble and replace the seals.

The nameplate date is the absolute time when the vehicle leaves the factory; the registration date is when the vehicle is registered with the traffic management department after sale. The difference represents the time the vehicle spent in the dealer's warehouse or logistics. If the time difference exceeds 6-8 months, the vehicle is considered a "stock vehicle," and we pay special attention to the natural aging of its rubber components.